The Rubber Band Gun: a stretched rubber band held on a big gear, a motor driving that gear through a worm, and a Touch Sensor for a trigger. Press it and the gear turns just far enough to let the band go.
You have stored energy in rubber before, with the Elastic Car in Lesson 14. That one you wound up with your hand and let go immediately. This one has to hold the stretch — sitting there, loaded, with the motor switched off and nothing else stopping it.
That is the interesting problem. A stretched band pulls back hard enough to spin most gear trains straight round. This one does not budge, and today you find out why.
In the real world 5 min
Where you have seen it
Every guitar has six of them. The tuning pegs on the headstock are worm drives: you turn the little key and the string tightens, and then the string — pulling with real force — cannot turn the key back.
A worm drive — the screw-shaped worm above, meshing with the toothed worm wheel below. Photo: Bernard Spragg. NZ / Wikimedia Commons (CC0).
Why it is built that way
A worm is a screw with a gear wrapped around it. As the screw turns, its thread pushes the wheel’s teeth along, one tooth per turn. So one full turn of the worm moves the wheel by a single tooth — a huge reduction from one small part.
And here is the useful bit. The thread meets the teeth at such a shallow angle that pushing on the wheel just jams the thread harder into itself. The friction wins. The wheel cannot turn the worm, no matter how hard you push.
What would go wrong without it
Think about a lift, or a crane, or a car’s steering. All three hold something heavy in place. If the load could turn the motor backwards, then the moment the power went off, the lift would drop and the crane would swing.
A worm drive means the machine holds where it is, with no power, no brake and no program running at all. That is not a convenience — for some machines it is the entire safety design.
A worm drive is a one-way street. Power goes in through the worm and cannot come back out through the wheel.
Before you build 1 min
This model has no step-by-step manual, and the video below is not one. It is a film of a finished Rubber Band Gun working. Watch it for the target — especially for how the worm sits against the big gear — then build from the model your teacher has, or from a photograph of a finished one. You are not missing a page; the page does not exist.
The main concept — the gear that only works one way 6 min
Two gears that mesh normally can be driven from either side. A worm and a wheel cannot.
The worm turns the wheel easily. Push the wheel and the thread jams against itself — nothing moves. That is what holds your rubber band.
The reduction is enormous, and you can count it. A LEGO worm advances the wheel by one tooth per turn. Meshed with a 24-tooth gear, that is 24 turns of the motor for one turn of the wheel — which is why your gun winds so slowly and holds so firmly.
Gear pair
Can the output drive the input?
Two ordinary gears (Lessons 5, 13, 18)
Yes. Turn either one and the other turns.
A worm and a wheel
No. The worm drives the wheel; the wheel cannot drive the worm.
Slow, very strong, and it holds by itself. Those three come together, and a worm is how you get all of them at once.
▶Gearing, and the Touch SensorThe full reference for gear ratios and for the switch this model uses as a trigger. Open either if it is not clear yet.Show meHide
ComponentMechanics5 min
Gearing up and gearing down
Two meshed gears are a bargain. Whatever one of them gains in turns it loses in force, and whatever it loses in turns it gains in force. There is no arrangement of gears that gives you more of both, and no amount of building will find one.
The ratio is the teeth
Count the teeth on the gear you are turning (the driver) and the teeth on the one being turned (the follower). That is the whole calculation:
turns out = turns in × driver teeth ÷ follower teeth
An 8-tooth gear driving a 24 gives ⅓ of a turn out for every turn in — and three times the turning force. Turn the pair round and you get three turns out and a third of the force. Count the turns yourself below.
0.00turns in0.00turns out×3turning force
strongerslowerslow and strong — a lifting winch
Two gears, meshed. The one on the left is being turned; the one on the right is along for the ride.Watch the two counters. They are not climbing at the same rate.Whatever the follower loses in turns, it gains in force — and whatever it gains in turns, it loses in force. There is no setting that gives you both.Finished. Count the turns again with a different pair and the trade goes the other way.
stopped
The number of teeth is the whole story. 8 teeth driving 24 means 8 ÷ 24 of a turn out for every turn in — and the force changes by exactly the opposite amount.
Gearing down, gearing up
Arrangement
Turns
Force
What it is for
Gearing down — small driving large
fewer
more
winches, lifts, robot arms, anything that has to move a weight
Gearing up — large driving small
more
less
fans, spinners, launchers, wheels on a light fast robot
1 : 1 — same size
same
same
moving the drive to a different axle, or fixing a direction
The names are worth getting right because they are backwards from what people expect: gearing down makes the output slower, not smaller, and it is the setting that makes a weak motor able to lift things.
Gear trains
Put several pairs in a row and the ratios multiply. Two 1:3 reductions in series give 1:9 — which is how a Medium Motor ends up able to raise something it could never shift directly. This is also how a gearbox with a sensible number of parts reaches a ratio that a single pair never could: a 40-tooth gear driven by an 8 is 1:5, and doing it twice is 1:25.
Only the first and last gear affect the ratio. Anything in the middle passes the motion along and changes nothing but the direction — which is a whole idea of its own, in Changing the direction of a turn.
What it costs
Every mesh loses a little to friction, so a long train is less efficient than a short one. Gearing down far enough to lift a heavy load also makes the mechanism slow, and slow is not always acceptable. And a gear train that is geared down hard is very hard to turn backwards by hand, which is either a useful brake or a nuisance depending on what you are building.
Why it matters
A bicycle is the same idea with a chain instead of teeth in mesh: the low gear that gets you up a hill is turning the back wheel slowly and pushing hard, and the high gear you use going downhill does the opposite. Cars, drills, cranes and clocks are all making the same trade.
ComponentSensing5 min
The Touch Sensor
The Touch Sensor is the simplest input the EV3 has: a button that is either pressed or not. That sounds trivial, but it is how a robot knows it has hit a wall, reached the end of a track, or been told to start by a person.
released
pressed
The red button out, and the same sensor with it pushed in. These two states are the entire output of this sensor — there is nothing in between.
Blocks reference
Block
What it does
wait until <[1 v] is pressed? :: sensors>
Holds the program here until somebody presses the sensor.
<[1 v] is pressed? :: sensors>
Reports true or false. Drop it into a condition to make a decision rather than a wait.
[1 v] when [bumped v] :: events hat
Starts a whole stack of its own. The dropdown chooses the moment: pressed, released or bumped.
Three different events
A button is not only “pressed”. One press is three things: the moment it goes down, the time it stays down, and the moment it comes back up. Watch what a single press does to three programs at once.
when program starts
forever
if 1 is pressed? then
change count by 1
versus two hat blocks
1 when pressed
1 when bumped
0is pressed? in a loop0when pressed0when bumped
In a loop: 0 answers from one pressBumped: exactly one
Nobody is touching the sensor. All three programs are watching it.A finger presses the button. Watch the red button go in — a couple of millimetres is the sensor's entire movement.The finger is still down. The loop checking «is pressed?» has already run hundreds of times, and every one of them counted.The finger lifts. Only now does «bumped» count, because bumped means pressed AND released.One press. Three completely different answers.Finished. The same press, counted three ways.
released
The middle counter is the one that surprises people. Nothing is wrong with it — a loop really does check that fast, and every check really is a separate answer.
Nothing there is broken. A loop really does get round hundreds of times a second, and each time it asks is pressed? the honest answer is still yes — so if that loop plays a sound or counts something, it does it hundreds of times from one finger. The two hat blocks each fire once, and they fire at different moments: pressed the instant the button goes down, bumped only when it comes back up.
The three options, and what each is for:
Pressed — the button is down right now. Good for “hold to run”.
Released — it is up again. Good for acting when somebody lets go.
Bumped — pressed and released. This is what you want for “click to start”, because it will not fire repeatedly while a finger stays down.
The classic bumper
when program starts :: events hat
set movement motors to [B v] and [C v] :: movement
start moving [straight: 0] :: movement
wait until <[1 v] is pressed? :: sensors>
stop moving :: movement
The robot drives until something presses the sensor. Note that the movement is started unmeasured on purpose — the sensor decides when to stop, not a distance.
Why it matters
Touch sensors are everywhere in machines you cannot see into: a lift knows the doors are shut, a printer knows the lid is closed, a washing machine will not spin until it is latched. They are safety devices as much as inputs.
Say this back before moving on: “The worm can turn the wheel. The wheel cannot turn the worm.”
What’s in this build 4 min
Three parts with cables — and you have to tell us which motor it is, because this model has no written parts list.
Large Motor
Medium Motor
Which one is in your build? The Large Motor has a big red drum on the end and a stepped body. The Medium Motor is a flat slab with a small red boss on its end face.
Part
What it is doing here
EV3 Intelligent Brick
Runs the program and holds the frame steady.
One motor — you decide which
Turns the worm. Port A, and every program below says A.
Touch Sensor
The trigger. Port 1, as always.
The worm and the big gear (no cable)
The one-way drive. This is the part today’s lesson is about.
Prove the worm locks — before you power anything
Brick off, and no rubber band on it yet. This takes a minute and it is the most convincing minute in the lesson.
Turn the motor by hand. The big gear should creep round — slowly, because of the reduction.
Now try to turn the big gear by hand instead. Push firmly. It will not move, and the motor will not turn.
Try harder. It still will not move. You are not going to break it by pushing — the thread simply jams.
Now do the same test on any ordinary gear pair on another model. Both directions work. Feel the difference.
That is the whole lesson in your hands. Nothing in the program holds the rubber band. The mechanism does, and it does it with the power off.
Ports — and the rule 4 min
Sensors go in ports 1, 2, 3, 4. Motors go in ports A, B, C, D. They are not interchangeable, and nothing will tell you politely if you swap them.
Part
Port
Why this one
The motor (turns the worm)
A
A single working motor takes A. The programs say A rather than naming a motor type, because the port is what the Brick actually knows.
Touch Sensor (the trigger)
1
Touch is always port 1 in this course.
Check your own build now:
Motor cable in A, sensor cable in 1. A letter and a number.
Is the worm meshing properly with the gear — not too tight, not slipping off the end? A worm that is a stud too far away will skip.
Hook the rubber band on and let go of it. Does the mechanism hold? It should, completely.
Point it at a clear space. Not at a person, not at a window. Say out loud where it is pointing before every run.
Connect the Brick 4 min
Two routes, and either is fine. USB is the reliable one and the one to fall back on when a room’s Bluetooth is busy; Bluetooth leaves the robot free to move, which some models need.
▶How to connect the BrickUSB and Bluetooth, step by step, with a photograph of every screen. Open it if you have not done this before — or if pairing is not working.Show meHide
USB — the reliable one
Switch the Brick on with the dark grey centre button.
Cable into the Brick’s PC port — the small square socket beside the numbered ports, not one of the numbered ones.
Other end into the computer.
Bluetooth — name it first
Do these in order. Naming the Brick after you go looking for it in the list is how groups end up driving each other’s robots.
Name your Brick. On the Brick: Settings (the spanner) → Brick Name. Type something nobody else will pick, then press the tick. Every Brick is called EV3 until somebody changes it.
Turn Bluetooth on. Settings → Bluetooth. Tick Bluetooth and Visibility. Leave iPhone/iPad/iPod unticked.
Connect from EV3 Classroom. Click the Brick icon at the top of the programming area, find your Brick by name, and click Connect.
Say yes on the Brick. It asks “Connect?” with the computer’s name — choose the tick, then accept the passkey, which is already 1234.
Where to read it. The name sits in the bar across the very top of the screen, on every screen — so you can check which Brick you are holding at any moment without going into a menu. This one is EV3VE. A Brick nobody has renamed says EV3.Step 3, and the reason step 1 exists. Three Bricks in range — read the name before you click Connect. Pairing with the wrong one is not an error: it works perfectly, on somebody else’s robot.
Step 2.Bluetooth switches the radio on; Visibility is what lets the computer find you. With Visibility off your Brick works perfectly and simply never appears in the list.Step 4. Look at the Brick. It asks whether to accept and names the computer. Choose the tick.Then the passkey, already 1234. Press the tick again and you are connected.
The two failures, every class, every time. The Brick has gone to sleep while you were building — press the centre button to wake it. Or you have paired with the group at the next table, which is why the name matters.
The long version, including Port View and how to read the port tiles, is in the Brick & Bluetooth guide.
Load the band last. Get the Brick connected and the port tiles checked before you stretch anything. A loaded gun sitting on the desk while you fiddle with Bluetooth is a band that goes off when somebody nudges the table.
Confirm the connection 2 min
Check the Brick icon: connected, or not.
Port A shows a motor. Note which kind the tile says it is, and check it against section 5.
Port 1 shows a Touch Sensor. Press the red button and watch the reading flip.
Turn the motor by hand and watch degrees counted climb. Notice how many degrees go by for a small movement of the big gear — that is the reduction, as a number.
Make it move 10 min
Four blocks. It is the shortest program in the course, and it is short because the mechanism is doing the hard part.
when program starts :: events hat
[A v] set speed to (30) % :: motors
[1 v] wait until [bumped v] :: sensors
[A v] run [clockwise v] for (2) [rotations v] :: motors
Two turns of the worm nudges the big gear round by a couple of teeth — just enough to let the band slip off.
Walk it in the order the Brick runs it:
set speed to 30 % — a setting, not an action. Slow, because a worm drive is slow anyway and forcing it just makes noise.
wait until bumped — the program stops here. Note that the band is loaded and held the whole time this block is waiting, and nothing in the program is doing that.
run clockwise for 2 rotations — two turns of the motor. Because of the reduction that is only a small movement at the gear, which is exactly what you want: enough to release, not enough to fling the mechanism round.
What success looks like: the machine sits loaded and silent, a click fires it, and the gear stops dead the moment the motor block finishes — no coasting, no unwinding, because the worm will not let it.
If two rotations is not enough to release the band, go up in ones and find your own number. If it is far too much and the gear whips round past the release point, come down. Every build hooks the band at a slightly different tooth.
Change it and test 8 min
One change at a time, and predict before each run. Firing line clear on every single run.
Find the smallest number of rotations that still releases the band. Go down one at a time. When it stops firing, you have found the edge — go back up one.
Change the speed to 100 %. Predict whether the band flies further. It should not: the band’s energy came from your hand when you stretched it, not from the motor.
Now set the speed to 5 %. It still fires. A worm drive does not care how fast you turn it — it cares that it turns.
With the band loaded and the program not running, push the big gear hard again. It holds. Now say out loud what is holding it.
Add a [A v] run [counterclockwise v] for (2) [rotations v] at the end to wind the mechanism back ready for reloading. Does it return to the same place?
Step 2 is the one people argue about. Turn the motor up and the band goes exactly as far as before, because the motor never pushed the band at all — it only got out of the way.
Find out what is actually doing the work before you try to make a machine better. Here it is your arm, not the motor.
Build it 15 min
Build the model before you read any further. Everything after this is about making it do something, and none of it will make much sense with nothing on the table in front of you.
Use the viewer's own controls to zoom and turn pages. Fullscreen makes it big enough to build from.
Check the finished build against the picture before you switch anything on. A motor mounted the wrong way round is far easier to spot now than it is to debug later, when it looks like a program fault.
This is what you are building: the Rubber Band Gun 2.
Challenges & mission 27 min
Work through the challenges in order — each is harder than the last. The mission comes after all three, and it is meant to make you plan before you build.
Challenge 1
Find the smallest release. Work down from two rotations one at a time until the band no longer fires, then go back up one. Report the number, and then prove it is reliable: five loads and five fires in a row with no adjustment between them.
Challenge 2
Make it reload itself. After firing, the mechanism must wind back to exactly the position where a fresh band can be hooked on, so the operator only has to fit the band and press. Show three complete cycles without anyone repositioning anything by hand.
Challenge 3
Prove the worm holds, with evidence rather than assertion. Load the band, switch the Brick off entirely, and leave the machine for two minutes. It must still be loaded. Then explain in one sentence what is holding it, and why an ordinary pair of gears could not.
Mission
Build a machine that is safe to leave loaded.
Your gun must be able to sit loaded and unattended on a table without firing, must fire only when the trigger is deliberately clicked, and must give a clear warning before it fires so nobody is surprised by it. Somebody walking past and knocking the table must not set it off.
Plan on paper before you build. List every way this machine could fire when nobody meant it to — a knock, a nudge, a program restart, the Brick being switched on — and decide what stops each one.
Two questions when you demonstrate it. What holds the band when there is no power at all, and how do you know? And which of your safety measures is in the program, and which is in the mechanism — and which of the two would you trust more?